Modern Gentlman's Wardrobe

[Reformation Student]

If you had to build a basic modern day gentleman's wardrobe, what would you include? With business casual becoming the trend in the workplace (at least in many places in the U.S.), does the wardrobe change much from the traditional dark suits, blazers and wool trousers?

[Single Wedge]

Thats a tough one. Men's warehouse has a suit deal for $2,000 that includes a good starter set. Maybe check them out to get an idea.

I'd say a dark suit & light suit. A nice pair of khakis and jeans. A sport coat to go with each. Black and brown shoes with matching socks. A good hat and other accessories.

[rwb]

if it cant be done in jeans and t-shirt i cant do it

[oldfat1]

Let's see......

Dark suit,
light suit,
blue blazer,
tweed blazer,
polo shirts,
khakis - chinos,
blue/black trousers,
henleys,
jeans,
black shoes,
brown shoes,
deck shoes,
hats,
caps.

Of course, that was just looking in my closet:D.

P.S. I almost forgot, back in the corner, in a plastic bag, a tux.

[Mottern Man]

I will have a full report on Monday for this one...

Get your note books boys!

[Reformation Student]

if it cant be done in jeans and t-shirt i cant do it

I know, but I can't wear my cowboy boots and hat all the time :D


I will have a full report on Monday for this one...

Get your note books boys!

Teach on, Professor!

[TstebinsB]

if it cant be done in jeans and t-shirt i cant do it

I don't like to do any work that I can do in jeans and a t-shirt. :rofl

[Mottern Man]

Men’s basic wardrobe

Suits:
Dark gray or charcoal and dark navy, stay away from dark sold black unless you’re at a funeral. Solid color or pinstripe, remember not to make the pinstripe stand out like Al Capone. You just want them to make the suit color lighter. Pinstripes can also be sliming, if they are close together or widening if they have more spacing. Single breasted 2 or 3 buttons. Save double breasted for more formal events. I recommend having two suits because you never know when you are going to need a back up. You can get a suit at Target and it looks just as good as Brooks Brothers but it won’t last nearly as long so if you wear suits sparingly this is an option to explore. If you are a constant suitifile go with the 130 thread wool (I can’t tell the difference between 120 and 180). Try not to go over 350-500 dollars. There are deals out their, find them. To take care of it use a wooden hanger (http://www.hangercity.com/preschersuit.html).

Trousers:
If you get ones with a suit make sure you dry clean them with the suit. If not you will get wear and tear on one and not the other.
The rule for trousers is simple
Pleated = Cuff
No Pleats = No Cuff
Do not hang them folded on a hanger bar (put your ties on those) hang them on a wooden clip (http://www.hangercity.com/blonwoodtrou.html).

Shirts:
Solid white, light blue or gray. Buttondowns for casual attire but not buttondons for the suit, same with pinstripes.

Shoes:
Black or brown (cordovan), wing tip or cap toe, laced up (save slip ons for casual). More on shoe care to follow.

Socks:
Over the calf, must match shoe color.

Ties:
Stay away from loud colors, use more solid deep colors. Stay away from funky designs (save them for casual) All Silk and do not use a tie clip, 1. They look tacky and 2. The will ruin the tie.

Belts:
Leather, 1 inch wide, color must match shoes. Small buckle unless you are from Texas.

Coats:
Rain: Military Style Tan Trench (classic).
Top Coat: Dark colors no funny designs.

Casual:
Sport coat and blazers are good to go here, along with button down collars and your loud ties. Polo shirts, turtle necks, sweaters, vest, slip ons are also authorized. Paints = cotton, twill or corduroy.

Dos and Don’ts
1. Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie.
2. Never button the bottom button of a suit.
3. Tip of tie should reach to the belt buckle
4. The cuffs of the shirt sleeves should show ½ inch below the suit sleeve (this is to protect the suit).
5. Belt or suspenders not both.
6. NO WIFE BEATER UNDER SHIRTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let’s talk collars.
How dose your face look?

Spread collar = Diamond, Triangle, Rectangle, Heart shaped faces
Standard collar = Pear, Oval shaped faces
Pointed collar = Round, Square shaped faces

Tips: Never wear spread collar with sport coat, use a buttondown. Spread collar for double breasted suits.

Suit Jackets
European cut = Wedge body frame (top bigger then bottom).
American cut = Parallel body frame.
Ivy League cut = For those with a little junk in the trunk.

Tuxedos? RENT THEM!

Tie Knotting:

Four in Hand (http://www.tie-a-tie.net/fourinhand.html) = Easy to tie but looks a little crooked, good for casual or for 6 year olds.
Single Windsor (http://www.tie-a-tie.net/halfwindsor.html) = The standard, nice.
Double Windsor (http://www.tie-a-tie.net/windsor.html) = Power suit, formal dress
Bow tie (http://folds.net/bowtie/) = tux or clown suit.


Remember Jeans and T-shirts never go out of style. :D

Also get some work boots, sneekers, crocs, etc. Style is subjective out of the work place.

[Mr. Tadashi]

Dos and Don’ts
1. Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie


I have seen this before and I will second this. :happy102

[Single Wedge]

Thanks MM, I will print this out and redo my wardrobe. :cool:

[Reformation Student]

I have seen this before and I will second this. :happy102

+2 (but don't tell my pastor)

[Reformation Student]

Great post, Will!!

On sock color - I was always told that sock color should match pants, not shoe color.

I'm unfamiliar with the types of suit cuts (Ivy and such). I'll have to look into this as I am well girthed :( around the waist.

What's a wife beater undershirt? I have an image of the ribbed tank tops.

Thanks for taking the time to post such a thorough and thoughtful post. Combined with the shoes, we should have a great basis to dress as nicely as our shaves look :D

[RJTrevino1975]

[QUOTE=Mottern Man;108744]Men’s basic wardrobe

Dos and Don’ts
1. Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie.



There is a guy at my office who does this everyday he works. It drives me up the wall but who am I to dictate style to anyone right?

[JayKay]

Not only do you never wear a short sleeved shirt with a tie, you probably shouldnt own a short sleeved shirt button up in the first place. I'm only talking in terms of modern style do's and donts, not the "this is exactly how I follow style", because frankly, I cant afford the clothes I'd want to wear. style is pushing its way back to the 50's in terms of well cut suits and classic colors/patterns. I love french cuffs and super straight starched colors. Only wear a wife beater if you shirt is thick enough and cant be seen through. Socks needn't completely match the shoe or the suit. There are some pretty nifty cashmere socks on the market that look very funk with a thin cut modern suit. Square toed shoes are also dead.

[Mottern Man]

Great post, Will!!

On sock color - I was always told that sock color should match pants, not shoe color.

I'm unfamiliar with the types of suit cuts (Ivy and such). I'll have to look into this as I am well girthed :( around the waist.

What's a wife beater undershirt? I have an image of the ribbed tank tops.

Thanks for taking the time to post such a thorough and thoughtful post. Combined with the shoes, we should have a great basis to dress as nicely as our shaves look :D


Socks=Paints or shoes, sorry.

The American cut- the industry standard, middle of the road suit cut. This is basically the normal type of suit you see people wearing.


The Ivy League cut - this kind of suit is not tapered at the waist, so it tends to hang straight down and allow more room at the waist. This cut is often preferred by the big dudes. Usually has vented sides and not just one vent in the back.


The European cut- this one tapers at the waist, for a trim, fit look. Before buying a suit with a European cut, make sure you are not planning to gain weight.



And this is the Wife Beater (http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/90/Ashirtexample.jpg).

[Pokerstar]

In the immortal words of Calvin Klein.... "There is no fashion look that can not be enhanced by a mullet."

[Reformation Student]

There are some pretty nifty cashmere socks on the market that look very funk with a thin cut modern suit. Square toed shoes are also dead.

Thank You. I thought I was the only one who didn't like square toed shoes.

Oh - don't forget argyle socks. They're pretty spiffy too :D

[Mr. Tadashi]

In the immortal words of Calvin Klein.... "There is no fashion look that can not be enhanced by a mullet."


Preach on! :D

[JayKay]

I'd only rock the argyle socks of they were cashmere.

Also, the cheap dress shoes with the molded rubber sole that sticks a tad past the edge and has fake stitch marks in the rubber... obviously a no-no.

[mastermute]

There is a guy at my office who does this everyday he works.

http://images.starpulse.com/Photos/Previews/Dilbert-02.jpg

[Island Brian]

In addition to Mottern Man's excellent posts, Esquire Magazine did a series on how to build a basic wardrobe. Go to Esquire-dot-com and search for 5000 + wardrobe. A few additional remarks...

Always buy quality when buying wardrobe staples. It pays repeated dividends. Poor quality clothes tend to look cheap and feel cheap and wear out easily.

The first thing anyone who asks about wardrobe should do is buy a plain white dress shirt (button down collar is okay) and a navy blazer. These items can be worn with almost anything (yes - even jeans, but not with black or navy trousers) so the question of "what should I wear with..." is usually solved.

First suit - buy a plain gray, medium (year round) weight. No stipes or other patterns. You can get a lot of variety out of this suit by wearing different shirt colors and ties.

Black belt/black shoes; brown belt/brown shoes.

Socks - matching the pant makes the leg look longer; matching the shoe is fine as well. Contrasting (argyle, whatever) makes a "statement" so be sure the statement is what you want to say, whether its "look down here 'cuz I wear Ferragamos" or "yep, the bowtie and these socks confirms I am indeed a clown."

Seasonality - basic rule is darks and heavier materials (cords, flannel, and heavier woolens in dark navy, charcoal gray, black, deep brown) from October to May and then lighter colors and materials (cotton twill, linen and light gaberdine in traditional navy, dove gray, khaki).

Absent a stain, dry clean as infrequently as possible.

When you buy your nice dress shoes, take them immediately to a shoe repair and ask them to put a "rubber half sole" on the shoe. It is replaceable for about $15 and you will never wear out your sole. Doing this and using wooden shoe trees and regular polishing, will make any shoes last a very, very long time. Replace the heel when you replace the rubber half sole.

You can be very comfortable in your dressier clothes (although you can't expect that "jeans and a t-shirt" feel). If your wardrobe isn't comfortable, then you need tailoring.

[Queen of Blades]

Welcome to The Shave Den, Island Brian!

Don't forget to sign up for the Newbie Give-Away (http://www.theshaveden.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7057)! :happy088

[The Chebb]

Don't forget the hankie...http://www.ehow.com/how_18037_fold-handkerchief.html

[Mottern Man]

Don't forget the hankie...http://www.ehow.com/how_18037_fold-handkerchief.html

My personal thoughts.

Hankies are for blowing you nose....

The only Accessory a man needs is a Weeding Ring, Watch, and a Necklace with or with out their religious symbol (not showing, of course).

No Hankies, Pocket Squares, Cufflinks, Lapel Pin, Flowers, etc...

[Reformation Student]

Hankies are useful to give to your lady when at sad events or chick flicks (it must be a clean hankie, of course.)

[Mottern Man]

Hankies are useful to give to your lady when at sad events or chick flicks (it must be a clean hankie, of course.)

But of course, now are you going to fold it up and stick it in your jacket pocket? :happy102

[JayKay]

Accessories are great. Cufflinks, belts, shoes, etc. Not a necklace fan. Nothing excessive.

[Reformation Student]

But of course, now are you going to fold it up and stick it in your jacket pocket? :happy102

Nah, let her keep it. Who wants a dirty hanky back anyway. :D

[Reformation Student]

Accessories are great. Cufflinks, belts, shoes, etc. Not a necklace fan. Nothing excessive.

You could get a necklace with a skull. (a professional symbol, you know :D) You could even name it - Yoric.

[redorchestra]

And above all BREAK THE RULES or else you will not have style.
Make it your own style.

Don't go to far or you will look like a clown, but go far enough so that they know it's intentional.

[Single Wedge]

Do not forget HATS. A good hat will set you apart from someone else.

[RayG]

Great posts.

About watches... when you are in a suit, I'd leave the big honking G-Shock or Timex Ironman at home. Diver's watches - hard to pull off unless you are 007.

[Reformation Student]

Do not forget HATS. A good hat will set you apart from someone else.

Good point. I've always regretted that we've lost the hat as part of a man's wardrobe (I do NOT mean ball caps, either).

A good hat is functional as well as fashionable. My preference is the homburg but it should depend on what looks right on you.

[Reformation Student]

Great posts.

About watches... when you are in a suit, I'd leave the big honking G-Shock or Timex Ironman at home. Diver's watches - hard to pull off unless you are 007.

If I'm in a 3-piece suite (a rarity these days), I go for a pocket watch just as an expression of my personality. Otherwise, a simple but attractive watch is always in style.

[Sejanus]

About watches... when you are in a suit, I'd leave the big honking G-Shock or Timex Ironman at home. Diver's watches - hard to pull off unless you are 007.

The Rolex Submariner are pretty freaky in size (Their new model is SUPER thick since it is good to something crazy like 3000 meters) but the current 'Bond Watch' Omega Seamaster is quite subdued. It can be pulled off in business attire.

[Michael]

Do not forget HATS. A good hat will set you apart from someone else.

THAT'S for sure! 'Cause hardly anyone wears them. I honestly can't remember the last time I saw someone wearing a hat.

Good point. I've always regretted that we've lost the hat as part of a man's wardrobe (I do NOT mean ball caps, either).

A good hat is functional as well as fashionable. My preference is the homburg but it should depend on what looks right on you.

I'm delighted that no one has worn hats since Kennedy refused to wear them. Functional, yes. Fashionable? Where?

[Reformation Student]

I'm delighted that no one has worn hats since Kennedy refused to wear them. Functional, yes. Fashionable? Where?

Current fashion trends may not call for a hat but I still believe that a hat is fashionable in a classic way. I do see more hats (mainly fedoras) being worn now than I have over the last few years although nothing like the pre-Kennedy era. A good hat still completes a good outfit but like many things, what's fashionable to one, isn't to another. I'll wear them, you don't and there will be the peace :D

[Mottern Man]

http://sidesalad.net/archives/RockyBalboa.JPG

[Reformation Student]

The homburg is my preference but the fedora is pretty stylish too.

[Sejanus]

+10 for Poirot!

[Island Brian]

THAT'S for sure! 'Cause hardly anyone wears them. I honestly can't remember the last time I saw someone wearing a hat.



I'm delighted that no one has worn hats since Kennedy refused to wear them. Functional, yes. Fashionable? Where?

NOT that celebrity makes hat wearing fashionable, but haven't you seen: Robert Downey Jr., Jude Law, Samuel L. Jackson, Justin Timerlake, Brad Pitt or Johnny Depp wearing hats?

I own two hats (a Hombourg and a Porkpie) and wear them on a scattered basis so as to make a style point, always collecting compliments when I do. I suggest one not default to the nearly omnipresent, wide brim, "1930s gangster" style fedora. Its obvious and you'll hear more Indiana Jones or "Godfather" comparisons than you'll care to. Don't forget about the trilby and my favorite for spicing up an otherwise stodgy ensemble - the Porkpie.

A lot depends on the shape of your face. Here are suggestions based on face shape:

OVAL: Streamline shapes, worn forward, square or round crowns, brims swept up on the side(s) or back

ROUND: Medium or small brims, neat styles, worn forward or on a slant.
Asymmetrical brims will lessen the roundness. Wear profile brims in varied sizes.

LONG: Medium to wide brims, worn straight or forward. Sharp, straight styles.
These straight brim styles "cut" the length appearance of your face.

SQUARE: Large brims with soft lines, upturned brims, round crowns or
curved edge square crowns

WIDE: Off the face styles, bretons, (upturned brims), profile brims.

HEART: Asymmetrical designs, Square or round crowns tilted to one side, Profile hats and brims with soft curves.

Best bet is to go to a good milliner and let them outfit you. In any good hat store, you will score HUGE bonus points by handling the hat by the brim and NEVER by the crown.

[Michael]

NOT that celebrity makes hat wearing fashionable, but haven't you seen: Robert Downey Jr., Jude Law, Samuel L. Jackson, Justin Timerlake, Brad Pitt or Johnny Depp wearing hats?

Nope. In fact, if the above gentlemen walked into my house, four of them would have to tell me who they were. I might recognize Jackson and Pitt.

I'm just saying that, in my normal, everyday life, I NEVER see a hat on anyone. Plus every hat I've ever tried on looked ridiculous on me...including baseball caps.

[Mottern Man]

Their are 2 people on the road that I stay away from...

1. A woman who cant see over the dash...

2. An old man with a hat...

[otherstar]

I'm an advertisement for bad fashion because I often wear short sleeves with a tie at work. I'm a librarian and long sleeves get way too dirty at work and are also too hot (I do live in Texas). Ties are part of the dress code for many libraries from September until May (during the not-so-hot months).

I also own a pork pie hat with a wide brim that was purchased with assistance from a milliner at Miller Hats in Houston. I have a broad, half-round, half-square face, and the pork pie and wide brim tend to slim my face a bit. Unfortunately, I only get to wear it a few months out of the year.

[Bori]

My personal thoughts.

Hankies are for blowing you nose....

The only Accessory a man needs is a Weeding Ring, Watch, and a Necklace with or with out their religious symbol (not showing, of course).

No Hankies, Pocket Squares, Cufflinks, Lapel Pin, Flowers, etc...

While I believe less is more, I think there are occasions where you can use accessories without pretension of pomposity or being accused of being ostentatious. While I may balk at using a pocket square/hankie while wearing a suit, for let's say work, I may wear it for a gala event, as an example (but on most occasions would pass). However, consider this, I think that wearing a pocket square/hankie with a suit, while not wearing a tie, is a way to fill the void. An example would be wearing a navy or charcoal suit with a white shirt with white pocket hankie or gray suit with blue shirt and matching blue pocket hankie, etc (you get the picture). This is especially a good idea for those hot and humid days like most days down here in South Florida where sometimes wearing a tie can be a drag, specially on Fridays ;). This may also be a good idea for those not so formal but business environments where you just wanna be a bit classy yet comfortable.

Of course this is just my perspective and I have to say this is a great thread and all suggestions are spot on. Keep this up!

Thanks.

[Reformation Student]

NOT that celebrity makes hat wearing fashionable, but haven't you seen: Robert Downey Jr., Jude Law, Samuel L. Jackson, Justin Timerlake, Brad Pitt or Johnny Depp wearing hats?

I own two hats (a Hombourg and a Porkpie) and wear them on a scattered basis so as to make a style point, always collecting compliments when I do. I suggest one not default to the nearly omnipresent, wide brim, "1930s gangster" style fedora. Its obvious and you'll hear more Indiana Jones or "Godfather" comparisons than you'll care to. Don't forget about the trilby and my favorite for spicing up an otherwise stodgy ensemble - the Porkpie.

A lot depends on the shape of your face. Here are suggestions based on face shape:

OVAL: Streamline shapes, worn forward, square or round crowns, brims swept up on the side(s) or back

ROUND: Medium or small brims, neat styles, worn forward or on a slant.
Asymmetrical brims will lessen the roundness. Wear profile brims in varied sizes.

LONG: Medium to wide brims, worn straight or forward. Sharp, straight styles.
These straight brim styles "cut" the length appearance of your face.

SQUARE: Large brims with soft lines, upturned brims, round crowns or
curved edge square crowns

WIDE: Off the face styles, bretons, (upturned brims), profile brims.

HEART: Asymmetrical designs, Square or round crowns tilted to one side, Profile hats and brims with soft curves.

Best bet is to go to a good milliner and let them outfit you. In any good hat store, you will score HUGE bonus points by handling the hat by the brim and NEVER by the crown.

Nice summary. Also correct on handling the hat by the brim only. Depending on the hat, it should be placed down on the crown to protect the shape of the brim.

[Reformation Student]

While I believe less is more, I think there are occasions where you can use accessories without pretension of pomposity or being accused of being ostentatious. While I may balk at using a pocket square/hankie while wearing a suit, for let's say work, I may wear it for a gala event, as an example (but on most occasions would pass). However, consider this, I think that wearing a pocket square/hankie with a suit, while not wearing a tie, is a way to fill the void. An example would be wearing a navy or charcoal suit with a white shirt with white pocket hankie or gray suit with blue shirt and matching blue pocket hankie, etc (you get the picture). This is especially a good idea for those hot and humid days like most days down here in South Florida where sometimes wearing a tie can be a drag, specially on Fridays ;). This may also be a good idea for those not so formal but business environments where you just wanna be a bit classy yet comfortable.

Of course this is just my perspective and I have to say this is a great thread and all suggestions are spot on. Keep this up!

Thanks.


Interesting, Bori. I've always distinguished between a hankie and a pocket square. Pocket squares go on the outside breast pocket of a suit coat. Hankies are white, used for blowing the nose or handing to a lady to wipe tears away with.

I also agree with the pocket square being reserved for "events'. I wouldn't wear one to work, but if I was going out for the evening to a formal banquet or ball, I would spice up the outfit with a pocket square. I do wear one with my tuxedo, but that falls into the "event" category if I'm that dressed up.

All excellent posts!! I'm really enjoying the contributions everyone is making.

[Reformation Student]

NOT that celebrity makes hat wearing fashionable, but haven't you seen: Robert Downey Jr., Jude Law, Samuel L. Jackson, Justin Timerlake, Brad Pitt or Johnny Depp wearing hats?



These guys wearing a hat does not do the hat industry any favors. I'd lump most of these guys, if not all, in with that Rocky picture a few posts up. Of course, some of them don't do the clothing industry any favors with the get ups we see them in sometimes :eek:

[Single Wedge]

Since there is talk here of a wardrobe I am starting a sub thread for hats so as not to hijack this thread. Another for watches would be appreciated (http://www.theshaveden.com/forum/showthread.php?p=109617#post109617).:cool:

[Reformation Student]

Since there is talk here of a wardrobe I am starting a sub thread for hats so as not to hijack this thread. Another for watches would be appreciated.:cool:

Fantastic! I think there are a couple on watches already but nothing on hats.

[Issy]

if it cant be done in jeans and t-shirt i cant do it
Just add a sweatshirt for the colder months