Mid-shave stropping - discuss

[Reformation Student]

Topic:

Old barber manuals I've read instruct the barber to strop before a shave and at a couple of points during a shave (ie - shave right side, strop, shave left side, strop). We, as amateur shavers (as opposed to professional), generally believe that stropping right before the shave is sufficient.

Discussion:

Why might the barber books advocate mid-shave stropping while we don't?

[moviemaniac]

Topic:
Discussion:

Why might the barber books advocate mid-shave stropping while we don't?

I can only guess here: A barber's straight would be used several times a day, therefore the need for mid-shave stropping.

[Reformation Student]

I can only guess here: A barber's straight would be used several times a day, therefore the need for mid-shave stropping.

Unless a barber college graduate comes along, I think all we can do is offer reasonable theories but who knows..

I had originally thought about the multiple uses, too. However, I think stropping before each customer would account for the multiple times. Mid-shave seems like it would have a different purpose. My guess is it has something to do with the comfort level of the shave.

[Jimbo]

That an interesting question. As you guys have said, multiple blade use and shave comfort are the things that spring to mind for me too. I think barbers often had several blades on the go, which may account at some level for the multiple use argument to some degree, but I really don't know.

Interestingly, not all amateur shavers do a single stropping before the shave - there's quite a few I know of who strop mid-shave too. A lot of these guys do it for comfort, and I think I recall a lot of them say they have fairly heavy and wiry beards.

There's some current debate over what a mid-shave strop does to the edge in terms of weakening it - I only see this as a potential problem with the modern stones that can create super-fine edges that barber's of old could probably only dream about - 30k - or even 16K- Shaptons, Japanese stones etc. Then there's pastes as well which, if they were available, probably weren't as ubiquitous among old-time barbers as they are among us amateurs today (that is a guess though).

Good question Steve.

James.

[JayKay]

I would have to agree with the comfort arguement. The old barber stones werent as fine as the new stones and a few swipes on the strop mid shave never hurt anybody. I would assume that the blades just werent as sharp and could use a little bit of an edge. Besides, those were the days where the best barbers who gave the best shaves got the most customers. Now-a-days were desperate for anybody who still gives a straight shave, let alone a good one.

[mike Ratliff]

Stropping mid shave can be beneficial if your razor has a softer steel, of if you have an exceptionally coarse beard.
depending on what razor I am using, I will sometimes strop before shaving my chin and upper lip. Especially if I'm using my TI, or testing a smaller full hollow blade. (keep in mind small for me is 6/8)
If I'm using a half hollow or stiffer blade, or stainless, I don't need to strop during my shave.

As for Barbers, they would have stropped before each customer, so a mid shave stropping would have been redundant.
I would be more inclined to think it served for comfort in several ways,
1) refreshes the blade
2) allows hot towels or hot lather more time to soak in, and do it's thing
3) gives the customer a minute to relax and reposition if needed.
4) possibly to allow the barber a break, and lower his arms...

[Reformation Student]

Mike,

Nice post. That all makes a lot of sense. I'm interested in that you said mid shave stopping might be useful if using softer steel and that you might mid shave strop especially if using a TI. Do you think TI carbon is softer than, say, Dovo carbon?

[Hooper]

My guess would be mid-shave stropping re-aligns the fins to provide the best comfort level during the shave.

As a kid I had to get a hair cut every two weeks -- mother's orders! I remember waiting my turn in the barber shop and often watched shaves being performed. There were four barbers in that shop -- 3 brothers and one of the barber's son. They all used different techniques and frequency in stropping and honing. They all had barber hones at their station, but occasionally would go into a back room with a razor and return a few moments later and strop it again. I assume they had hones back there for sharpening. They all had half a dozen razors laying on the counter. One was used exclusively for edging around the ears and sometimes the neck/sideburn area, while sometimes a different razor was used for the neck/sideburn. I never saw them strop the razor used for edging around ears.

Other razors were used for face shaving. They barber honed and stropped while the towels were softening the beard, using their thumb to test the edge. While the prep took a while, the actual shaving time was pretty short. I knew nothing of with/across/against the grain back then, and I don't recall them doing anything like a obvious 3-pass shave. I more recall they stretched and shaved small areas multiple times until they were satisfied with the feel, probably going w/x/a as needed until it was bbs.

[Reformation Student]

My guess would be mid-shave stropping re-aligns the fins to provide the best comfort level during the shave.

As a kid I had to get a hair cut every two weeks -- mother's orders! I remember waiting my turn in the barber shop and often watched shaves being performed. There were four barbers in that shop -- 3 brothers and one of the barber's son. They all used different techniques and frequency in stropping and honing. They all had barber hones at their station, but occasionally would go into a back room with a razor and return a few moments later and strop it again. I assume they had hones back there for sharpening. They all had half a dozen razors laying on the counter. One was used exclusively for edging around the ears and sometimes the neck/sideburn area, while sometimes a different razor was used for the neck/sideburn. I never saw them strop the razor used for edging around ears.

Other razors were used for face shaving. They barber honed and stropped while the towels were softening the beard, using their thumb to test the edge. While the prep took a while, the actual shaving time was pretty short. I knew nothing of with/across/against the grain back then, and I don't recall them doing anything like a obvious 3-pass shave. I more recall they stretched and shaved small areas multiple times until they were satisfied with the feel, probably going w/x/a as needed until it was bbs.

Hooper,

Thanks for contributing! This is a great experience you have. Can you remember what it looked like they were doing with their thumb as they tested the edge?

[Padron]

Great thread!

Don't know how I missed it....I never really go for the mid shave stropping...I tried it when I was learning how to hone...but now I think the edges I achieve don't warrant a mid shave stropping...

my beard could be less coarse than others though, so I can certainly see a possible need for it..Just happy I don't have to do it. :)

[jnich67]

I usually strop a few laps between passes. I don't know how much it really helps, but I don't think it hurts either (kind of like linen). I've seen more experienced str8 shavers say that since you're stropping more frequently, you don't have to worry about "resting" the razor because the teeth don't get that far out of alignment. I don't worry about all that too much. Try it. If it works...

I also wonder how much of this kind of thing is "mannerisms" developed out of habit on the part of the barber. To some extent it is for me. Sort of how baseball pitchers rub the baseball when they problably don't really have to. Just a thought.

Jordan

[Padron]

Good point Jordan about the mannerisms...They have to show the customers that they are stropping and
giving them the best edge / shave possible to increase the tip factor :)

[mike Ratliff]

Mike,

Nice post. That all makes a lot of sense. I'm interested in that you said mid shave stopping might be useful if using softer steel and that you might mid shave strop especially if using a TI. Do you think TI carbon is softer than, say, Dovo carbon?

TI uses very hard, very high quality steel, but it isn't as hard as my other razors. TI steel is slightly softer than Dovo IMHO, but it is better steel.
If I had to chose between the two, I would chose TI because I like the feel of their steel better.
The reason I would strop a TI mid shave is to maintain that smoothness they are noted for.

The other razors in my rotation are all extraordinary in their own right, and comparing them to any current production razors would be unfair. They were selected for shave quality, edge retention, smoothness, etc... Out of well over 100 razors I owned, restored, and sold, I only kept 3 for my own daily use. The TI is an excellent razor, but it still isn't in the same class as my others.

[Reformation Student]

TI uses very hard, very high quality steel, but it isn't as hard as my other razors. TI steel is slightly softer than Dovo IMHO, but it is better steel.
If I had to chose between the two, I would chose TI because I like the feel of their steel better.
The reason I would strop a TI mid shave is to maintain that smoothness they are noted for.

The other razors in my rotation are all extraordinary in their own right, and comparing them to any current production razors would be unfair. They were selected for shave quality, edge retention, smoothness, etc... Out of well over 100 razors I owned, restored, and sold, I only kept 3 for my own daily use. The TI is an excellent razor, but it still isn't in the same class as my others.

Thanks Mike.